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In memoriam

The Casualty Roll

Every climb here lost a hold to wet sandstone, as reported by the climbers who were there. They are survived by harder beta.

  1. Meadowlark Lemon
    V13/14 · Gateway Canyon, Red Rock · Reported 2014

    Holds broken by people climbing it wet.

    Survived by: nobody who can climb it.

  2. Caustic Cock
    Cannibal Crag, Red Rock · Winter 2014–15

    Key holds broke when it was climbed wet. One local swears it climbs harder now.

    Survived by: a grade it didn't ask for.

  3. The Pearl
    V4/5 · Red Rock · Winter 2014

    The start hold snapped after a rainstorm, and more damage was reported the day after a rain the next winter.

    Survived by: a start with trust issues.

  4. Big Bad Wolf, pitch 1
    Riding Hood Wall, Calico Basin · December 2014

    Holds broke on the first pitch after the December storms.

    Survived by: a sandbagged first pitch.

  5. Sound of Power
    5.12c · Southern Nevada · Spring 2013 and 2014

    Lost its first crux after rain in 2013, then its upper crux after rain in 2014. Two cruxes, two storms.

    Survived by: two storms' worth of regret.

  6. Pain Check
    5.12a · Southern Nevada · Spring 2013

    The intermediate hold shorter climbers used to reach the crux broke off after rain.

    Survived by: tall people, smugly.

  7. Chips Ahoy
    Owl Tor · Winter 2013

    A few key holds broke in wet conditions. Patched with drilling and glue.

    Survived by: epoxy.

  8. Spaceshot, pitch 4
    Zion · Mid-2000s

    A good hooking edge blew out a couple of days after a storm.

    Survived by: aid climbers, muttering.

  9. Epinephrine, pitch 17
    Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rock · Oct. 30 (reported 2005)

    A handhold pulled out on a traverse and the leader fell about ten feet, ending in a rescue. The accident report says rain two days earlier may have contributed.

    Survived by: the climber, thankfully, and one very busy rescue team.

  10. Unnamed east-facing route
    Red Rock · Feb. 6, 2015

    A rounded foothold broke days after rain, on sunny rock that looked dry. The climber nearly came off.

    Survived by: the climber, barely, and a new respect for dirt.

Hover or tap a link to hold it still.

These are climbers' reports, mostly from Mountain Project threads, not breaks we've checked ourselves. A climb only makes the roll when the report blames rain or wet rock; holds that broke with no stated cause stay off it. Sandstone breaks on its own sometimes too. Wet sandstone just breaks a lot more. Before your next session, check the call at your crag on Can You Send.

Sources

  1. Mountain Project: damaged-while-wet list
  2. Rockclimbing.com: Soft rock, wet rock
  3. Mountain Project: Red Rocks after the rain
  4. American Alpine Club: Accidents report

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